ZAMBIA 5th to 17th JULY 2008

17th July 2008 Lusaka - Heathrow.

2008-08-05T07:38:00.001-07:00

Our early morning call doesn't arrive but we're awake and packed by 6pm. Into the restaurant for a cup of tea and then some bill examination and recalculation at reception as we had prepaid the rooms. Eventually all is settled and our taxi drives us to the airport in the usual bright, gleaming morning.

Lusaka International Airport.

As usual there is chaos inside. Its two hours before our flight leaves but we have to join a queue for check-in immediately. There is confusion, people getting into queues for the wrong plane, for the wrong ticket class and so on.
Eventually a BA ground staff man appears and bellows out a few instructions and it settles down.

We go through the baggage check and then through immigration. Into the pleasant, spacious departure lounge and we have a cup of tea. Dave and Sue look in the shops.
The flight is called and we form another queue through a security check, followed shortly by a second before queuing for the last time to get on a plane.

A young look-at-me Englishman with a toddler lets his kid run around before running after him and picking him up then repeating the performance twice more. Look folks, I've got a baby. No one smiles.

Up into the 767. Smiling Stewardess. Seats in the middle again. Less Americans, more Zambians on this flight. A stewardess comes down the aisle with a flyspray squirting it every few feet. It is just as ineffective at pest control as it was forty years ago.
The pilot gives us some chat as we settle in. The plane is full again.

We leave on time; its a daylight flight so sleep isn't easy. We read, doze, Sue produces a couple of crosswords, watch the TV and eat.

The toddler runs down the aisle followed by Mr. Look-at-me saying, 'Come back'. Then he appears in the opposite aisle. Everyone notices that he's got an extendable lead and could control his kid. No one looks at them.

The hours pass. We start the descent to Heathrow and have to stooge around above central London for ten minutes waiting for air traffic before finally making a smooth landing.

Another ten minutes taxiing across the airport and then another twenty minutes before we get our bags, clear customs and walk out to see Kev jiggling the car keys and grinning at us.

Twenty minutes later we're in a traffic jam on the M25.

16th July 2008.

2008-08-05T06:02:00.000-07:00

JULY 16TH 2008

The holiday is almost over now. After an early breakfast a car arrives for the Males to take them to Lusaka Airport for flights to Chobe in Botwana for another couple of days game viewing.

We say our goodbyes.

Durbers make arrangements to get the next available car and wait around for it to arrive.

Paul phones Kevin to confirm pick up from Heathrow the next day.

Males say goodbye..................................................................................................Paul phones home.

The Voyagers car driven by Humphrey arrives. Its goodbye to the friendly staff.

Dining Room staff...................................................................................Frank, Paul, Goodson and Sue.

Humphrey drives at one speed - fast - and one braking method - hard. Two shut-your-eyes hours later we are in the middle of Lusaka. He drops us at the Holiday Inn just before lunch.

This is a good hotel. Good rooms, restaurant, McGintys pub, big, pool, gym, etc. The staff are first class and go out of their way to help.

Paul goes to the British Airways office next door to confirm the next morning flights and then spends thirty minutes in the 'internet' cafe printing off three boarding cards.

The hotel is built around an open air pond. In this live fish and half a dozen small crocs. The Husseys use this hotel frequently and Rob had told us that when he was there last year there had been very heavy rains which - unbeknown to anyone - raised the level of the water in the pond high enough for the crocs to get out. Rob was sitting in McGintys Bar that evening when there was a god-almighty commotion and a croc stalked into the bar. He said that the bar cleared in seconds and the funniest sight he's ever seen was the bar manager trying to push the croc out with broom.

We have a good lunch by this pool and then Dave and Sue buy most of the contents of the gift shop.

We meet again later in McGintys for a couple of drinks on our last night. At seven pm we go into the restaurant. This has a really top buffet and Sue is ready to eat. However, we've laid on a little surprise. When we overnighted here last week Paul had mentioned to Rob that Sue used to like Lobster Thermidor in our previous life in Zambia and that he hoped to get one on this trip. He wrote a note for the general manager and that afternoon Paul had been approached by a chef who confirmed that she would produce it.

So it is that Maina the chef marches down the restaurant bearing a silver platter and lays it in front of a delighted Sue. It has to be said that the lobster did not last long.

Dave and Paul settle for the buffet and steaks cooked to order by the Louis Armstrong lookalike.

A few more drinks by the pool then Sue and Paul go to bed.

15th July 2008 Chingola - Ndola - Kabwe.

2008-08-05T04:38:00.000-07:00

JULY 15TH 2008

We're thinking of the return journey now. Males fly to Botswana tomorrow. Durbers have another day then fly back to the UK.

We pack and go for breakfast. Alison Hart comes over to chat and wish us goodbye.

She has not heard of the Open Pit viewpoint suggested by Tony Goddard but we try for it anyway and drive up out of Chingola on the Chililabombwe Road.

As Tony told us, a few miles north, there is a clearing on the right and we pull over and get out. We can see the pit but the angle is difficult and the low early morning sun is against us.

Then a Zambian with a peaked cap tells us that photography is not allowed. We leave. Mission not accomplished.

Goodbyes in the Protea then its back through Kitwe where both cars manage to get lost before arriving back at Polite car where we're to leave our cars and get a lift with Yumba to Kabwe.

We hang around for over an hour. Florence tries to calculate our bill but is constantly interrupted by the Accountant, Francis, who continually whispers corrections to her and generally slows it all down. New faces appear to collect or drop off car keys. Phone calls come in. Florence handles everything. Joe Chikole, the owner and father of Florence, introduces himself ; a big, louder than life character he is very hearty but does not accelerate the process.

After a further debate about which vehicle we are to use - which is won on our behalf by Florence - we all climb in. Poor Pam chooses the short straw and is in the boot.

Out of Ndola, down the main road, past a recently crashed truck being dismantled by about fifty scavengers, past roadside stalls selling honey, beer, fruit and baskets. The hills near Kapiri Mposhi come into view, more roadside vendors selling china which Yumba tells us comes from China as Kapiri is the rail terminal for the line to Tanzania constructed by the Chinese. On through the outskirts and into the Tuskers car park.

We've cancelled our original plan to stay at the Mukuba in Ndola as this seemed a better and easier location.

Dave D. was booked in at the Wazungulu Guest House but fortunately we find through Frank the recptionist that a room is available.

Tuskers,a cup of tea, a coke for Yumba and we shake his hand and wish him well. A natural gentleman - and a brilliant driver.

We walk round Kabwe. Dave M takes a photo of the slave tree but, as we are walking away we hear a loud voice protesting, 'White man.., what you doing,..... no good!'. We walk on.

We try to find an Indian Jewellers and an elderly, courteous man named Dixon from the library walks with us and tells us that it has now closed. We ask why the Kabwe traffic is so busy and he tells us that when the lead and zinc mine closed in the eighties the employees all received compensation. Many bought taxis - hence the congestion - but now that the price of fuel has rocketed they are facing tough times. We thank Dixon and walk on.

The roads as usual are breaking up badly. The shops run down and selling only very cheap or second hand goods. Vendors use the pavements . There are no whites and the few Indian faces we see are inside dark shops.

It is obvious that we are a novelty and comments in the local language are passed as we walk by; we can tell that these are not compliments. Some think that we are American.

We ignore them and walk the town. Its a noisy town with a general background babble topped by shouts from taxidrivers.

Its not pleasant but its not threatening.

Back to Tuskers.

More Kabwe photos. The Slave Tree and a market on the roadside.

Its the Males last night with us and we have a few glasses on the patio - glasses clinking, Cheers!

Then we eat. There are no other diners although the manager, Daniel Mweetwa and a lone Chinese resident are entering as we leave. Pam goes to bed whilst the rest of us try the bar.

There are about a dozen people in there. Loud music from the TV is stepped right up as we enter and we realise that we are not wanted. A couple of drinks and Sue and Paul leave followed later by Dave and Dave.

14th July 2008 Chingola

2008-08-04T12:50:00.000-07:00

JULY 14th 2008.

A late breakfast today. Into the dining room at 8.30am for the now customary buffet with fried breakfast options as well as cereals and fruit. Many of the other residents seem to be mining engineers with South African accents to the fore. Most are immaculately dressed, have laptops and they sit around in the dining room, the patio, the bar and reception tapping away.

We abandon the cars for the morning and walk up the hill into Chingola town. Sue and Paul met and married in Chingola and Sue's family were long time residents.
Although slightly run down its a much neater town than say Kitwe or Kabwe and we all feel at home despite the lack of white faces. We walk through the town to Fourteenth Street where Paul lodged for a time with his mate Eddie Kirkham, his late wife Sheila and young daughter Julie. The street is untidy and has little tarmac left but otherwise looks the same.

The Kirkhams old house, 30, Fourteenth Street.

Back in town we walk through the main street. Most of the old shops have gone now but Stubbs the Chemist where Ann Goddard worked forty years ago is still there and has the same name. The shops seem upmarket compared to those in other towns that we've been to but security must be an issue. We see a policewoman carrying a rifle walking down the street, concrete bollards are positioned at the ends of streets presumably ready to block them off and we have to hand our backpacks in when we browse in a large store.

On through the town down to Tenth Avenue where one of Paul's old drinking haunts, the theatre, is located. Rob and Hazel were once stalwarts there and this is where Paul met them. Hazel trod the boards many times; Rob but once, memorably, in a WW2 play. A brilliant piece of typecasting. The first blond Japanese soldier.

At this time of the morning it is not open and a little chat is needed before a young woman removes the big chain on the door. We're allowed to go in and and find it little changed. A framed list of members from 1960 in the foyer, old and modern posters plugging shows. The reception and bar have not been changed.

The friendly manageress tells us that they still put on plays but only average about 20 paying patrons. They get more for bands and other events. We take photos. Paul poses in his usual spot hoping for a game of liar dice to start..

We walk out and along the main road to the Catholic Church where Sue and Paul wed on 3rd July 1971. The friendly, young priest, Father Brian Mutale, takes time out and opens the church for us.

The church remains in excellent condition, still painted in blue and white, and the inside has gained a balcony where, according to Father Brian, an excellent choir sing.

We walk around remembering. Many who were there are still friends albeit rarely seen; the Husseys - Rob was Best Man -, the Green family, Ken Barclay.

Back in Chingola we walk through a market just off the main road. Dave D. calls in for a haircut - £1.50. We're all struggling with Zambian money. Its 6,600 Kwacha to the pound and everything seems expensive until its calculated. To confuse the issue we've also brough US dollars as these are accepted by most traders and we sometimes have to make another calculation.

In essence most prices are cheaper than the UK.
Pictures below show the market and Dave D. getting a Number One haircut.

Pam and Posh Spice blouse ..... ............We then walk up to a cafe for a drink on the outside patio.

We walk back down to the Protea and for the only time on our holiday spend thirty minutes sunbathing by the pool. Alison Hart, the manager comes over and introduces herself and we discover that the Goddards who Durbers were friendly with in the sixties are still here, that Ann Goddard is still working at Stubbs Chemists in town and that she is Alison Hart's best friend.

Alison also tells us that we stand no chance of getting to see the Open Pit on the mine. Access is strictly controlled now since an Indian consortium took control. This is a blow as it was a spectacular sight in the seventies and we know that it has doubled in size.
Thirty minutes in the sun and we are burnt. We go inside for lunch.

After lunch Dave M drives Sue and Paul into Chingola; we go into Stubbs the Chemists and wait for Ann Goddard to appear. naturally she is bemused at seeing blasts from the past but promises to come to the Protea for a drink that evening.

We walk around the corner to the BCEL. This is the British Commonwealth Ex-Servicemen's Club, once a watering hole for expats and Paul and Gordon's (Sue's father) main boozer. It is still a drinking club although it is used as a church on Sunday mornings. We go in. A barmaid - Charry - lets us look around and we have a drink. Charry is pleasant but doesn't have much English and her maths aren't very good as somehow Paul doesn't get any change. The club has not changed in 40 years except for the substitution of a TV for the dartboard.

The same regimental crests - some now missing - adorn the pelmet above the bar, the same WW1 posters, badly faded, are on the walls and the footrail around the bar -perfectly postioned for the stand up drinker - is still solid.

Even the furnishings, the bar stools and seats along the window care the same and Sue suspects from the colour that it is the original material.
A beer, photos and we move on.

Dave drives up to Kabundi, a residential estate a couple of miles out of town. Sue's family lived at 4, Mupundu Street and we search for it. The roads are the worst we've been on and we bemoan the fact that we didn't hire a jeep. However, we didn't know that an off-road vehicle would be needed to get round the residential areas.

A few false leads then we find it. Two Zambian women at the rear see us at the gate and disappear. A young girl comes to the gate - an English speaker - and we tell her why we are there.

Nothing happens. We take a few photos and leave. Once again the house is in reasonable condition but the roads are terrible.

Back at the Protea we make calls to organise the rest of our trip and then meet in the bar at 630pm. Waiting for us are Tony and Ann Goddard. Tony was the 'official' photographer at the Durber's wedding.

He now works on a brickfield and brings us up to date with Chingola and people we once knew. Most are now dead (including Zebron the BCEL barman who lived at their house for a few years) and many others that he mentions we cant remember but the beers flow freely. Tony tells us that a new and bigger copper mine has opened in the northwest and that big money is being earned. He confirms that we wont get to the Chingola Open Pit but tells us of another viewpoint on the Konkola Road.

They confirm that crime is a problem and Ann had been tied up whilst their house was robbed a few years ago. The crooks got seven years. Neither wants to leave Zambia.

After a fairly hectic little session the shake hands and leave. We eat.

Playing WHEN-WE and JU-REMEMBER.

Above, Africa's Finest..

Above right Males, Durbers & Goddards.

Right. The Goddards say goodnight.

13th July 2008 Ndola - Kitwe - Chingola

2008-08-04T07:31:00.000-07:00

JULY13TH 2008.

Dave M. is still on the internet when we head for the buffet breakfast at the Mukuba but denies having been there all night. The 'broadband' in Zambia is painfully slow.
We check out, the general opinion being that the Mukuba is distinctly average.
On the plus side it sports a small herd of impala and a clutch of noisy peacocks.

Peacock at Mukuba reception..........................................Dave in front of impala.

Yumba arrives and drives us to Polite Car Hire nearby at Ndola Airport. Whilst we wait for our cars to be organised by Florence we ask an armed policeman if we can take photos as Ndola Airport hasn't changed much since the 1960's - still the same old big Nissen hut used as the terminal.

At first he refuses but allows us to take pictures from outside. Later he draws us a map to Kitwe. Its wrong but the thought is there.

Florence shows Paul some of the dents and scratches. Pam is ready to go.

Friendly policeman.

The papers are processed and the two Daves man the cars. We drive out of Ndola and north to Kitwe. Its less than an hour away and we can see the mine headgear from miles away. As we get closer the massive slag heap on the left of the road comes into view. For over fifty years rail trucks have run from the mine along the top of this dump to tip molten slag down the side. At night it is a spectacular sight but its Sunday and daylight and we see nothing. The road is busy with taxis, minibuses and trucks, most driven badly, and scruffy buildings sprawl alongside.
We guess our way into the city centre and immediately the roads deteriorate. We locate the Edinburgh Hotel, park in a security guarded enclosure and go in for a bite and a drink.

Kitwe is Zambia's second city and the Edinburgh is its best hotel and one of the best in the country. Inside it is still plush and well maintained. Wide marble staircase brightly polished and smart waiters give a good impression. We go upstairs to the terrace bar and order a drink.

When we first arrived back in the country we ere told that a new beer named Rhino was to be tried. We could not find it in Livingstone, Lusaka, Mfuwe or Ndola and had almost given up on the quest. however, a smiling waiter tells us that we have come to the right place for Rhino and duly delivers three bottles. It is rubbish.

We have lunch and go to explore the town.

The Edinburgh Hotel............................................................and the elusive Rhino.

In the 1970's Durbers and Males lived and worked in this city and Dave D. was born here. Once again we are disappointed to see that it has fallen into disrepair. The once neat and clean streets now a mix of tar, sand and rubble, its shops selling downmarket goods. Moneychangers stand waving wads of notes on the corner by the Edinburgh.n We walk over to Mutondo House, the office block that was our workplace and a friendly security guard allows us through the gate. It is now David Mwila House and, although in reasonable repair, also suffers from the same shabby appearance.
All of the big, western stores have gone but the Post Office, a large, imposing building looks from the outside as if it has retained its smart appearance.

Mutondo (now David Mwila) House.

It is noticeable that we are the only white faces now in what was once a cosmopolitan town. We spot only two other whites in the city centre and see any no Asians although once there was a large number of shopowners.

Hero Statue in Kiwe City Centre ................................................Durber's old house.

We go looking for Durbers old house in Rhodes Street and immediately get hopelessly lost. We pass the Little Theatre, still putting on productions, and David D. listens as Paul and Sue give contrary directions. Behind them Dave and Pam try to stay in touch. The roads are abysmal and there are no street names or obvious landmarks. Locals give misleading directions. What we dont think of is that 'Rhodes' is not an acceptable name (because he was the arch colonial) and has long since been changed to 'Chile'.

After about twenty minutes Sue - right again - locates the house.

The friendly owner, Mr Chomba, comes to the gate and we walk into the drive. It is in good repair. He has cut much of the foliage back because there 'were too many snakes' and the avocado and mulberry are long gone. We take pictures, thank him (who wants to be interrupted at home by five foreigners on a Sunday afternoon?), promise to send him copies of the photos, and leave.

Its Males turn now but they know where they are going and we head out past Parklands to Nile Avenue. The road - like most - is in a bad way. The storm drains are almost full of sand and have been used to burn rubbish.

The Males cant remember their old house number and many houses are hidden behind tall fences now but Pam and Dave eventually settle on the one shown below.

Pam is determined to find her old house.

Memory Lane well and truly walked down, we drive out of Kitwe towards Chingola, our home for the next two nights.

The traffic thins out and then stops dead as we're heading down a hill towards a bridge about two hundred yards in front. We can see that a truck is at an angle on the bridge and that the opposing traffic has also stopped. Nothing is moving. A minibus inches down the hard shoulder on our left. Then another and soon the hard shoulder is packed. Still nothing moves. Then the hard shoulder on the right fills up. Only one lane left and sure enough a bus tries to get on it. Fortunately a policewoman appears and lays down the law.

A car full of Chinese is roundly abused by Zambians. There is much noise and anger but still nothing moves.

We move across to the right hand lane and then, half an hour after we stopped, our lane moves and we are waved through. As Dave drives down the hill an ambulance tries to move up. Its not hurrying and when we see the mangled remains of the truck's cab - its hit the metal side of the bridge - we can understand why.

Soon we're in the clear and in late afternoon sun reach the outskirts of Chingola. There are none of the ramshackle buildings trailing by the road, no piles of rubbish; the bush and anthills give way to neat buildings and then we're in the built up area looking little changed in forty years.

We turn right at the roundabout and down Kabundi hill to the Protea Hotel.

The receptionist, Sheila, remembers the Durber name from phone calls and emails and we check in to a modern, clean hotel.

Drinks, good meal. Bed.

Traffic snarled up after accident..........................................................Protea Hotel

12th July 2008 Luangwa - Lusaka - Ndola.

2008-08-03T11:35:00.000-07:00

JULY 12TH 2008.

We take our time at breakfast on our last morning in Mfuwe. No game drive today; we're on the 9.30 flight to Lusaka.
We say goodbye to the Lee family who are also leaving and members of staff. Its been an excellent few days.
Jason rounds us up at 8.15 and we set off for the airport in early morning sunshine along the narrow road, over the Luangwa bridge waving goodbye to the staff at the checkpoint; past straggling, poor villages with their ramshackle vehicles and patches of cultivation. Children smile and shout 'Bye,bye'. Cyclists wobble off the tar and on to the orange dirt as they hear us approaching.

Jason cant resist pointing out birds as we pass. Rob, armed with three days of information, shouts out, 'Lilac crested roller' and later Dave, not to outdone, 'Chicken!'. Everyone laughs.
The airport is quiet. The Males arrive clutching souvenir blankets bought near the road. We've arrived before the staff and we stand around waiting until the check-in starts. There is no information about delays but Husseys, veteran users of Zambian airlines, walk out and settle in at a cafe with the papers and coffee.

A Proflight plane arrives, passengers board and we watch it as it taxis out and takes off right on time. Our flight time passes. No news. At 10.15 our plane arrives and we troop out. It leaves one hour late. Three of our four Zambian Airways flights have been delayed. Males had also told us that their flight to Mfuwe had been delayed as the previous passengers had refused to fly because of a smell of burning and smoke coming from the air conditioning. They had walked off and refused to continue till it was fixed.

No problems with our flight though. No Blanche, but the stewardess offers us the same chicken baps - maybe exactly the same chicken baps -and we politely refuse. We all notice, however, that they are delivered to the pilots.
As we begin to descend to Lusaka airport the little plane bumps around in turbulence. Rob leans over and says that the chicken baps are getting to work in the cockpit..
Outside the airport a smiling driver is waiting with a modern Nissan minibus. We pile our luggage in the back and said our goodbyes to the Husseys who have been absolutely great companions but have to get back to Swaziland. They gave us excellent advice and help in setting up the trip and were good fun all the time.

Out to the Zambian Airways flight at Mfuwe. Saying goodbye to the Husseys.

Our driver is Yumba, a smart, courteous man who is also an excellent and knowledgeable driver as becomes clear as he bypasses the notorious Lusaka city centre.

We drive through well-to-do areas with houses protected by ten foot fences with shards of glass or razor wire atop the walls. Some have electric fences and some have all three. Large warning signs are displayed Security guards stand by some gates.
We gradually drive out into the less well off areas, busy steets with older cars and vans and the ever present minibuses packed with passengers and putting out clouds of black smoke.

On the outskirts of the city we pass through an out and out shanty town with shacks made from every material conceivable; wood, brick, clay, cardboard, lino, plastic. Piles of rubbish, some of them alight, lie everywhere and thousands of ragged people swarm around.

Yumba chooses to stop for petrol here and we sit, uncomfortable in the van and breathe a sigh of relief when finally we move off and clear the built up area heading north to Kabwe.

The views have changed little in the thirty odd years since the Males and Durbers lived here. There are many more vehicles on the road, more people and more houses - mainly made of mud - on the roadside. However, this, the M1 of Zambia and the only major road in the country, is in good condition.

Every so often Yumba slows down and we thud over a speed bump. Much bigger than in the UK and with no warning signs they are not painted and impossible to see in the bright sunlight. Fortunately Yumba knows them all. They often precede a police check where all vehicles slow down and wait to be waved through or stopped. We're told that they are looking for untaxed and unroadworthy vehicles but a high proportion of the vehicles that we pass are obviously in a dangerous and overloaded condition. We can only asssume that they know routes past these checks.

Zambian bus passengers.

We are stopped only once on our journey when a young, self-important policeman walks around the brand new minbus looking hard at the wheels before waving us on dismissively.

Ninety miles on we enter the outskirts of Kabwe. The Durbers lived here between 1971 and 1974. Their daughter Carol was born here.

Yumba follows directions as we enter the town and eventually we find the Durber's first house, 8 Nerina Street. The once pretty estate, each street named after a tree and that street lined with those trees, has deteriorated badly. There are no roadsigns, the tar has disappeared from the roads and many houses are in poor condition.

We park outside the house. A high hedge protects the front but little else has changed. A young woman comes to the gate but -unsurprisingly - does not invite us in but allows us to take photgraphs from the gate. This house is not too badly maintained and a pool has has been added at the front. We dont linger and drive into the town centre looking for the Elephants Head hotel.

The pics below show the house today on the left and as it was in 1972 on the right.

Pics above show the Elephants Head (now Tuskers) and the Slave Tree, Kabwe.

We find the Elephants Head, now renamed Tuskers, and park . It was and still is the only real hotel in town. We have a good lunch on the lawn served by a helpful waiter named Frank. Round the corner stands a large fig tree where once slaves were sold. In the seventies it was the bus terminus but its fenced off now. We carry on north, arriving in Ndola. the start of the copperbelt mining area at dusk and check in to the mukuba Hotel.

A good lunch at Tuskers and arrival at the Mukuba Hotel, Ndola.

The Mukuba is a big, modern looking hotel The rooms are a bit of a let down and are well worn.

We meet in the bar and have a couple of beers. A Jaapie stands by the bar shouting in Afrikaans into his mobile. A so-so buffet meal and back into the bar where the Jaapie continues to dial and then shout. We suspect that he is dialling his own number. Dave M. gets on to the internet. He has work to do. The rest of us go to bed.

11th July 2008 Luangwa Valley

2008-08-02T13:22:00.001-07:00

JULY 11TH 2008.
Our last day in Luangwa. Early morning call as usual but its not needed. We've been kept awake most of the night by hippos fighting, farting and squelching about, elephants trumpeting and lions roaring. Where's the Noise Prevention Society when you need it?

Our American friends had been stopped by security from going to their chalet last night for a time as elephants were eating the trees above it.

Breakfast and then off on the bum-numbing jeep trail again. Jason continues where he left off yesterday, simultaneously driving, spotting and telling us about the birds and animals.
Whats more he speaks six languages.

We see a jeep parked in front of us and a big bull elephant, followed by another, walking down the road towards it. We stop behind the jeep and the back row occupants turn round. Its the Males. We photograph the elephants and continue to a spot overlooking two wide bends on the river where we stop for a drink.

Jason educates us.....................................................................................................................The Males

Our group photograph the............................................................................................................big bull.

It wanders off.....................................................................Kris and Sue swap gossip by the Luangwa.

Dave, Husseys and Jennifer.................................................................................Husseys, old Baobab

We then head west across a dried up river bed, struggling to get through the deep soft, white sand and have to have two tries to get up the steep hill on the other side. We give Jason a round of applause when we get to the top. The trees disappear and we're driving across a flat plain, little vegetation, just the stumps of old trees. Jason tell us that the vegetation has been destroyed by elephants.

Croc disguising itself with weed.......................................................................Maribou Stork, Impala.

We see a couple of crocs in a lagoon, weed on their backs. A pair of Maribou Storks, scavengers, look for something dead. A pile of white bones by the trail turns out to be the skeleton of a giraffe. Off the plain and onto a good dirt road where dozens of water buffalo are crossing in front of us. Zebras, baboons and the usual impala and puku are all around. Then its time to head back to Mfuwe where the Males arrive at noon for lunch.

Lunch in the lodge and its time for silly photographs. Rob wears his Robin Hood hat, Paul his Zambian Rugby shirt and we've borrowed a guide's feathered hat for Dave Male.

A couple of cold Castles later at 3pm Jason is charged with delivering the Males back to Flatdogs camp; the rest of us go along for the ride. Two other people are also aboard to be dropped at the Norman Carr camp and a village.
We see elephant near Flatdogs, bushbuck, hippo in the lagoon and get a five minute tour of the Norman Carr camp.

Back to Mfuwe at 3.45pm, just time to get a drink before we're off on our last drive.
Paul photographs elephant near....................................................................................Flatdogs Camp.

Husseys and Kris and Ron Lee opt out of the drive so Jennifer and the Durbers are with Jason and Isiah.

We see little big game but enjoy the drive through unspoiled bush in the warm evening air. Hundreds of buck and zebra graze as if they were in a zoo.

As the sun drops we park on a bend of the river and the usual large Gin and Tonics are produced. We've all grown to like these and the little jokey conversations with Jason and the Americans. We've learned that Jason is a fan of Arsenal so there is a little gentle leg pulling.

Buck and zebra grazing in 'meadow'...........................................Sue, Dave, Jennifer, Jason and Isiah.

Last sunset G & T in Luangwa.

We set off in full darkness, Isiah swinging the torch from side to side as we crash through thick bush churning up clouds of dust. See hyens and plenty of buck, all standing stock still, spaced out in the open.

Near the end of the drive we see the lights of a jeep stopped off the road and pull up alongside and switch off the engine. A pride of lions have

killed a puku and are tearing it to pieces. We watch, the scene lit by headlights for a while, other jeeps arrive and we head back to camp.

The Husseys are there, cold beer at the ready, a couple of drinks then its the meal. As we finish there is a great commotion from outside, roaring and grunting. We walk out onto the balcony. There are lights on the lagoon and they show two hippos, nose to nose, debating which is going to remain there.

The noise is terrifying but there is little action until one gradually inches back out of the water and up the bank.

Back inside we toast Jason, thank him for his help and adjourn to the bar for a final drink.

Unfortunately everyone is so tired that a couple of drinks is all we can manage and its back to the chalets.

Early start again as we have a flight to catch.

Sue Hazel Rob Dave and Jason on last drinks.

10th JULY 2008 Luangwa Valley

2008-08-02T06:56:00.000-07:00

JULY 10TH 2008.

Early morning call at 5.45 after a restless night mainly caused by hippos squelching, belching and grunting around noisily below the balcony. A light breakfast outside before the sun gets up and then its into the Land Rover.

Sue finishes off her cornflakes. ...............................................Just ime for a laugh before we go.

Jason drives us out of the thicker bush and through open parkland with hundreds of puku, impala and zebra grazing; unafraid in daylight as the lions will be resting. The park is 9,000 square km (Wales is 20,000 sq. km) and no one is allowed to live there except the staff on a handful of lodges. No shooting is allowed in the park and they claim to have got a grip on poaching since the rhinos were wiped out by poachers in the eighties.

The only guns allowed are those carried by rangers accompanying walking safaris.

We see buffalo ......................................................................................and hippos.

More education from Jason as we drive. He points out the sausage trees which have a fruit two to three feet long that looks like a giant peanut; tells uis about local shrubs that are used to produce colours and medicine.
At about 9am he stops on the banks of the Luangwa and we watch hippos while we have a drink. Dave and Sue see a croc slither into the river below us and then a water monitor.

Another drive across a dry river bed and then into the trees again before stopping by a gravestone near the river. Its the grave of a famous naturalist, Norman Carr, who did much to secure the game parks in Zambia and started the walking safaris.

Near the grave a couple of tables are set up under the trees and a temporary kitchen manned by staff from the lodge are serving a full English breakfast - bacon, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, beans, sausage, toast and tea and coffee. All very civilised and we feel privileged.

Breakfast in the bush.................................................... ..... ..... ........Jason, Husseys, Durbers.

At one stage Jason stops the vehicle and stared at a bush several feet from us. We see nothing at first and then spot the rear end of an animal sticking out of the leaves. This gradually takes the shape of a lion and then it eases out, a large male. As we sit there a lioness appears then two cubs then another lioness and another cub. Suddenly we have a whole pride. Brilliant spotting by Jason.

............................................ Kris and Rob watch the pride amble into view.

We move on, a kudu bull grazes on young bushes and later spot a hippo fast asleep under a tree by the road. We watch it for a few minutes and it opens an eye but is totally unperturbed. Further along Rob spots a giraffe and then later we see two elephants lazily eating treetops.

Note - all the pics taken by Dave D.

Back at camp we decide to take the rest of the day off. Lunch in the camp, and then we spend the afternoon in our chalets watching the lagoon and and catching up on some sleep.

We wave our AMerican friends off with Jason as they go on their evening drive and then chat with Hazel and Rob for a while before agreeing to meet at 7pm in the bar.

When we arrive there is a little drinking session underway with a witty and slightly inebriated young bloke who is co-owner of a small camp. A couple of drinks on and the jeeps return and we have another good meal in candlelight.

Later Paul and Sue are reprimanded for trying to walk to their chalet without a security man.

Another great day.

9th July 2008. Lusaka to Luangwa Valley

2008-08-01T13:12:00.000-07:00

JULY 9TH 2008.

Holiday Inn, Lusaka; up and packed by 6am, time for a slice of toast and tea before getting into taxis for the 20 minute drive to the airport. We've drawn two cowboy taxi drivers and there is little chat and plenty of imaginary brake pedals pressed as we belt along.

Our little Brazilian plane is on time and we even have the Charming Blanche as our hostess once more. We sit by the emergency exits again and she starts to go through the drill before recognising us, smiles and says, 'I have to do it'. A good flight in bright sunshine (we decline the chicken bap, Rob is convinced that its the cause of his upset stomach) and as we near the Eastern border we can follow the contours of the Luangwa River as it snakes through the bush. A smooth touchdown and Blanche says, 'See you again'.

Waiting to meet us at little Mfuwe Airport is a game viewing jeep with a trailer for our luggage. The driver, Jason, is to be our guide during our visit. Its a 40 minute trip along a country road. In the 70's there was only one village by this road, now almost the entire length is lined with mud and wattle rondavels with reed roofs plus clay and brick buildings. Behind them,cultivated patches of fruit, and vegetables show bright green against the red soil. Signs advertising carpets, vegetables, stores, bars and souvenirs are nailed to posts. The locals are cheerful and the kids playing in the sand stop and wave as we pass.
On through the park gates and over the bridge across the river where crocs lay sprawled by the water and we turn right into Mfuwe Lodge where an American woman named Shelley welcomes us with a drink and iced towels before asking a helper to take our luggage to our chalets. On the path to the chalet a little snake, no more than ten inches long rears up on the path and makes it clear that IT isn't moving. We step carefully around it. The next day, in the same place, Sue had the same experience
The main lodge has a large open bar/dining room that opens out onto a pool and a wooden balcony that overlooks a lagoon. Separate buildings for staff and a massage parlour are nearby. Apparently in November elephants walk through the bar to get to the fruits of a certain tree which must be interesting. The individual chalets, strung out along the lagoons are each self contained with a bathroom and lounge/bedroom. The lounge opens out onto a wooden verandah above the lagoon. The bathroom windows can be slid back so you can watch game from your bath. A big mosquito net can be dropped over the beds at night.

Pics show Sue outside chalet and on balcony.

There is always something to watch. In the lagoon crocs lie waiting, strange birds wander around and there is always game on the banks, usually pukus or impalas but sometimes crocs, hippo, bushbuck and kudu - and the baboons are everywhere.

The camp day is: early morning call at 5.45am. along to the balcony for breakfast and at 6.30 climb into open jeep with a driver/ guide for a three to four hour drive around the park. Back for a buffet lunch then its siesta time during the hot part of the day until 4pm when its tea and cakes before doing another three to four hour drive. Back by 8pm to a home cooked meal.

The guides are highly trained. In addition to the basic skills of driving and bushcraft they have to learn about firearms, and the hundreds of trees, shrubs, grasses, birds, snakes, lizards and insects as well as the animals. During their four year training they are expected to learn Latin names as well as the local and English ones.

The Males are in a smaller camp a few miles away. They are coming up for lunch on Friday.

For the game drives and the evening meals our group is joined by three Americans, a nurse, Jennifer, working in Malawi and her parents, Ron and Kris Lee, out from Florida on their first trip to Africa.

We set off on our first drive at 4.30pm. in the soft afternoon sunlight and immediately Jason is pointing at birds, 'Lilians Lovebird, Lilac Crested Roller' and explaining the difference between pukus and impala. We also see zebra and then he spots another jeep stopped off the road. We cruise up to it and he switches off the engine. A few yards away a lioness and two cubs lounge on the red soil. Shortly another lioness emerges and then another small cub. None pay any attention to us. We move on and enjoy the drive in the warm evening sun across lovely parkland. Waterbuck, bushbuck and then as the sun begins to set he pulls up by a tree on a low headland overlooking the river.

Gin and tonic and beers appear followed by samosas, cake and biscuits. We all chat and joke.

A nice little break.

Back on board we are offered ponchos as its getting dark and its cool. Jason has a deputy on board, Isiah, who now stands in the footwell with a powerful torch sweeping it from side to side looking for game. We soon see a mongoose, then a couple of water buffalo.

We keep our heads in and down as the jeep crashes through tree branches that whip across the metal frame. Then Jennifer says, 'Hyena' and we see the insane glint of a hyena's eyes as it turns to look at us from twenty yards ahead before shuffling off into the undergrowth. We see two more, close up, in the next few minutes then buffalo. Jason also picks out and identifies birds - 'Giant Eagle Owl, Barred Nightjar' as we bounce along trailing a cloud of dust behind us.

At about 8pm we pull back into the camp, tired but happy and have a couple of cold beers before gathering round our table for a delicious meal.

Around us, another five tables. The conversation is friendly but muted. Everyone is tired and we soon head off to our chalets with our mandatory escort - a member of staff with a torch - as hippos wander the camp at night.

Lioness & Puku.

8th July 2008 Livingstone - Lusaka

2008-08-01T03:26:00.001-07:00

8TH JULY 2008

Durbers arrived in the hotel foyer at 7.45am in time to see the Males waving goodbye from the rear of a minibus taking them to the airport to catch flights to Luangwa Valley in the east of Zambia.
Later Durbers and Husseys and all drove to the traditional Mukuni Village several miles away along a dirt road.
On arrival they were greeted by a dignified and articulate young black lady who introduced herself and then gave a brief tour of the village whilst explaining the structure and history of the Leya tribe and the role of the Chief. One interesting point made was that if the Chief is unable or unwilling to undertake his duties to the satisfaction of the tribe he can be poisoned. We agreed that some of these ancient traditions should be applied in the west.
The tour ended in an enclosure packed around the perimeter with curio sellers. These each had about a square yard of space to display their carvings and each had a standard patter which began with. 'My name is ...., welcome to my shop' and then extended the hand to be shaken whilst asking the buyers name. Although not agressive, they were persistent and this became wearing after a time especially as there were so many that it would have taken hours to complete a conversation with each.
This was unfortunate as the curios were good quality - almost as good as the ones by the Falls - and the sales patter often did them more harm than good. However, we bought several items before breaking off and starting back.
The population of the village is about 7,000 and we noticed that many seemed ill. Later we discovered that 16% have AIDS; malaria and other diseases are also rife. An Englishwoman from Warwickshire has started a charity to improve hygene, education and and to improve the earning power of the tribe. An interesting but sad interlude.
We drove back into Livingstone, stopping to visit a large baobab by the side of the road.

Pictures below show a curio stall and the big baobab tree.

A good lunch at the Ocean Basket restaurant; as the name implies the menu is mainly fish but they had a great range including seafish flown up from South Africa.
We tried hake, dorado and locally caught bream - all delicious.
By now we were thinking about our flight to Lusaka scheduled to leave at 4pm so we headed back to the Sun and handed the car back to the owner. A last quick visit to the Falls and then we got into the minibus for the airport.
I suspect that we will be back.
Photos below - last shot of zebras in the hotel grounds, Dave and Sue before handing back the car, Dave and Rob in the Zambezi Sun reception.

We were scheduled to fly Zambia Airways to Lusaka at 4pm so we arrived at 2.45 and checked in our bags and got boarding cards. There was no sign of a plane and we were eventually told that we would not be leaving before 6.30pm. There is nothing to see and even less to do at Livingstone Airport. We walked the small hall, read cover to cover, the two papers that were available and tried to doze.

To add to our woes the bore from the hotel had arrived and we were faced with the possibility of over two hours of being talked at but fortunately he decided to go back into town.

As dusk fell we heard the sound of a plane in the distance and gave a little cheer as it turned out to be ours and in the dusk we climed on board at 6.30pm for the hour's flight to Lusaka.

Pictures below show the situation at 4pm, the situation at 5pm and the plane taxiing to a halt.

It was after 8.30pm by the time we arrived at the Holiday Inn; too late for our planned trip into the city for an Indian meal. Instead we enjoyed the first class buffet including large steaks cooked to order by a Louis Armstrong lookalike before showering and going to bed. We were due to check out at 6am the following morning to catch a flight to Mfuwe.

7th July 2008 Victoria Falls Bridge

2008-07-31T12:48:00.000-07:00

7TH JULY 2008. Part 2.

Shortly after the dancers finished David D. announced that he was going to bungee jump off the Falls bridge. Hazel immediately announced that she would also jump, 'To keep him company'.

This bungee junp is famous. Its a drop of about 350 feet into the Zambezi Gorge. The Husseys had both done it with two other generations of Husseys a couple of years before as had one of the Male boys twice.
So it was that a couple of stiffeners were ordered - Castle lager for Dave, white wine for Hazel - and we set off for the bridge.

The bridge itself is famous. Completed in 1905 it was the brainchild of Cecil Rhodes (of Rhodesia fame) and is the only rail link between Zambia and Zimbabwe and was meant to be a key component of his dream of having a north/ south Africa rail link between Capetown and Cairo.
Rhodes wanted the spray from the falls to drift across the trains and you can see from the aerial shot below how close they are.

Nowadays its obviously not been maintained to standard and the bridge shudders as the many heavy trucks taking copper ore south for smelting trundle across it one at a time.

Photo of Vic Falls bridge & Gorge taken by Dave D. on 5th July 2008.

The bridge is only a few minutes from the Sun; we could have walked but Pam offered to act as driver. There were plenty of people around and also bad tempered looking baboons who stalked the verges and road. We were approached immediately by the hawkers selling copper bracelets and Zimbabwean money; one caught the attention as he could recite the name of every British Prime Minister in reverse order commencing with Gordon Brown. We went to the scruffy little immigration post and got a ticket for 7 people to go on the bridge.

On to the bridge - Paul sporting the Zambian National Rugby Team shirt donated by the Husseys in revenge for the Robin Hood hat - and were directed to a wooden hut off the road where the bungee junping was arranged. To Dave's horror we discovered that the bungee jumping had been stopped at lunchtime because it was a public holiday. It was also closed the following day because that was also a public holiday. It was also our last day in Livingstone. Poor David had steeled himself for the jump and was in shock. He would not be jumping this year.
In a foul mood we got back into the car fending off the now obnoxiously persistent hawkers and went back to the Sun for a drink.

Approach to the Bridge. Dave D. Paul & Pam.

The Gorge from the Bridge. Knife Edge Bridge from the Falls Bridge.

Dave D. Paul & Pam on the Bridge. View across to the Victoria Falls.

Hawkers, our new best friends. Robin and Hazel and border guard.

Back at the Sun we decided to eat at the almost brand new Protea Hotel on the outskirts of Livingstone. Dave D. shuttled us up and Husseys met an aquaintance - an official connected with the Protea management - and his wife and we sat around the outside bar listening to his views on the world. It wasn't a conversation and he didn't welcome any other opinion or notice any attempt to change the subject so we were glad when we could shake him off by ordering our meals. The Protea had a big, delicious menu and we sat for a while drooling over it before choosing. T- bone steaks, sirloin, pepper and fillet steaks were the main choices but when the waitress came to take our order we discovered that amost everything was 'unavailable'. The two chef's specials were the only main meals. It is a very new hotel.

Fortunately both specials were good, the staff were good and we enjoyed the meal. On a nearby table sat the Charming Blanche with two young men, presumably plane crew stopping over for the morning's flight to Lusaka. No sign of a chicken bap on their table. Perhaps it was unavailable.

Back to the Sun at the end of a long day and Hazel and Sue decided to try the cocktails before we all staggered off to bed.

Dinner at the Protea, Livingstone. Cocktails at the Sun.

7th July 2008 Royal Hotel & Dancers

2008-07-31T10:48:00.000-07:00

JULY 7TH 2008

Ealy morning breakfast in the Sun restaurant; Rob & Hazel recount tales of their night out in Livingstone with David. We decide to walk the few hundred yards to the Royal Livingstone. This is a five star hotel, the big brother to the Zambezi Sun. The Husseys have stayed there and rate it highly (personal butlers are available).

The hotel is not flamboyant like the Sun. The rooms back on to a wide lawn studded with a variety of African trees and zebras and monkeys. A fence to keep elephant and hippos out separates the lawn from the Zambezi. There is a quiet, genteel air of oplulence and calm. Smartly dressed staff stand discreetly by.

1. Rainbow on Falls spray behind Sue. 2. Zebras at the Royal Livingstone.

1. Hazel Rob & Sue. 2. Sue & Pam.

Dave M., Rob & Hazel prime cameras.

Tea coffee, cakes and scones at the Royal Livingstone.

Back at the Sun we sat around the outside bar drinking. Unannounced the Zambian National Dance Troupe trooped (sorry) in and began a two hour routine of traditional drumming, singing and dancing in full costume by the pool.

Excellent entertainment.

6th July 2008 Livingstone Zambezi Cruise

2008-07-31T05:34:00.001-07:00

6TH JULY 2008 continued.

At lunchtime we stopped in a bar on Livingstone's main road for a drink then went to the Protea Hotel for another on the way back to the Zambezi Sun.

David watches Zebra at the Sun.

We reconvened at 3.30 to catch a minibus which took us a few miles along a rough road to a jetty on the Zambezi. We were off on a Sunset Cruise on the African Princess.The other passengers included a few Zambians, some Indians and a large Muslim family.
We commandeered one side of the deck (the side with the bar) and ordered our first of the 'all free' drinks from Irene, our smiling waitress wearing naval uniform, who guaranteed that we would have a nice time - and she was right. At 4pm the boat cast off and edged out across the smooth, wide Zambezi towards Livingstone island and we cruised quietly north away from the Falls. Hippos snorted by the shore as we passed by sipping cold beers and cocktails (us, not the hippos).
Our sister ship, the African Queen, and a couple of other cruise boats were plying similar courses. One, the Taonga Safari boat, looked like it had been made that afternoon out of old tyres and scrap wood. When I first saw it I assumed it was an old jetty. When it pulled away from the landing it trailed clouds of smoke and we realised that they were cooking on home made barbeques. There were no lifebelts. However, the passengers were obviously having a ball.

For an hour or so we put-putted peacefully along, the drinks kept coming and the mood was happy.
As the sun began to set we pulled near to the Zimbabwean side and waved to a couple of fishermen on the bank.
Soon afterwards the engines were switched off and we floated across the river exposing the full sunset across the water; as it began to get dark the engines kicked in and we turned for home. The Taonga Safari boat closed and there was an exchange of jeers and then our boat and the African Queen began to head south. Suddenly the engine noise got louder and we picked up speed. Looking across towards the shore the African Queen, parallel to us, was doing the same and then suddenly it was a flat out race, both boats belting downriver at full speed trailing wakes half a mile long and cheered on by their passengers. The Muslim kids next to us were dancing around shouting, faces alight with excitement. We were ahead, then they pulled in front then we finally got in front before throttling back and edging quietly in to the jetty in almost full darkness. Great fun.

Hazel led the singing in the minibus on the way back and stunned the driver by launching into a full version of the Zambian national anthem in the Bemba language. A family of Americans refused to participate and there were mutterings that they were miserable buggers but they were probably just sober.
Back at the hotel we ate (Paul tried curried crocodile - never again) and Rob, Hazel and Dave D. went into Livingstone for a few more drinks.

David is a billionaire in Zimbabwe - as is everyone else.

6th July 2008 Livingstone

2008-07-30T02:06:00.000-07:00

6TH JULY 2008.

A minor spot of bother this morning when a waiter from the previous night did a bit of money juggling. Dave, Rob and Paul made statements and we had our meal bills wiped clean after Rob laid down the law to the management.

Rob arranged a hire car for two days; a slightly worn Toyota Vista with 'Falls Tours' on the side which came in handy for parking in official car parks.

Dave D. volunteered to drive and he shuttled us up to Livingstone town about 15 minutes drive away. On his trip back to collect the second lot he saw cars pulling over and realised that a big bull elephant was walking by the road.

Dave drives car past Nyanja warriors.

In Livingstone we spent over an hour in the excellent Museum. Plenty of history there and David Livingstone's artifacts, guns, tools, photos and his hand written letters on display

Also interesting was an analysis of the tribes in Zambia - 72 tribes, 40 languages with English as the common bond. The history on display was honest and non BBC PC; Arabs were identified as the main slavers along with white westerners and black Africans. The history that we had lived through in the 60's and 70's - the independence phase - was also accurately reported.

On a large map in the foyer Dave D. identified his birthplace (Kitwe) and also claimed to have located his brothers' origin - Mongu

We walked on into the town. When last here it had been a pleasant, well maintained holiday town. Now the tarmac has all but disappeared from the side streets replaced by pot-holed red dirt. Street pedlars hawked fruit, old mobiles, matches, bits of any old junk, all laid out on the pavements.

We were trying to find the North Western Hotel; until the 1970's when a newer and bigger hotel was built this was the main hotel for visitors to the Falls or for those crossing over to Zimbabwe or Botswana as the borders are only a few miles away.

Although it was depressing to see the deterioration of the town it wasn't an intimidating atmosphere although there was an objection when Dave M. tried to photograph a queue at an ATM.

Eventually we found the North Western; long since closed and boarded up, only a small part is used as a gym now.

However, it is easy to see that it was once a lovely old colonial building although close up it's much worse than in the pictures. A friendly caretaker allowed us into the courtyard to take pictures and t9old us that the owner planned to reopen it. Good luck to him.

On the way back Rob negotiated with a moneychanger for Zimbabwean notes. Dave D. became an instant billionaire with a 50 billion dollar note worth about three loaves of bread.

Paul, Hazel and Pam watch Rob in action.

Note the wads of notes in the sellers' hands.

5th July 2008 Zambezi Sun & Vic Falls

2008-07-29T07:47:00.000-07:00

5TH JULY CONTINUED.

The Zambezi Sun is a smashing hotel. Its said to be only three star but its got a good restaurant, a pool, a poolside bar, good rooms, great staff and the Victoria Falls are a level five minute walk away. In addition zebras and monkeys wander the grounds. Its a fun place. Also in the grounds are a top restaurant, a gift shop, an internet cafe (or what passes for one in Zambia), and a tour booking centre.

Nyanja dancers wearing leopardskin loincloths (and little else), waving clubs and spears or playing drums and whistling and chanting wave visitors in and out. All good fun.

Nyanja dancers outside reception - Zambezi Sun.

The Zambezi Sun from the air. The spray is from the Victoria Falls.

After lunch we walked to the Falls. Some pics; Dave M. took most, others by Dave D.

Sue Paul Rob & Hazel.

Robin, Hazel and Sue.

Dave Male.

Paul Robin David.

Pam by the Knife Edge Bridge.

Pam on the edge.

Dave D. on the Knife Edge Bridge.

Rail bridge linking Zambia to Zimbabwe across Zambezi gorge in background.

4th & 5th July 2008 Heathrow to Livingstone

2008-07-25T05:02:00.000-07:00

4TH JULY 2008

The passports, visas, driving licences, tickets, E-tickets, vouchers, copy emails and letters had all been checked three times. The aspirin, immodium, Rennies, clothes, cameras, camcorder, spare batteries, spare tapes, dollars all safely packed.

Kevin bundled us into the car, eager to get down to Heathrow. We were off on our little pilgrimage to Zambia, a country that we'd last seen in 1977 when Dave was two years old.

After several hours of mind numbing tedium in god-awful Terminal 4 we went through the check in - informing a finely trained product of BA and the UK educational system that Livingstone is in Zambia (thereby ensuring that our bags went where we did) - and after a drink climbed on board BA254 scheduled for Lusaka.

On the packed plane, surrounded by what seemed to be dozens of young Americans sporting T-shirts with religious slogans, we settled into our seats and looked forward to ten hours of half asleep boredom.

British Airways Boeing 737-600

5TH JULY 2008
Crumpled and tired we all trooped off the Boeing into the warm Lusaka dawn and into the Immigration Hall where we formed into 3 queues - Zambians, Special Visas (this seemed to be all those young Americans) and Others; that was us and we were at the end of the line.

It soon became clear that there were no immigration staff on duty so we all stood there looking at each other for ten minutes before a young black woman in a Zambian Airways uniform appeared and asked if anyone was transferring to a Zambian Airways flight. We were, and she took our passports and waved us past the rest of the queue and through immigration.

We tried not to look too smug as we strode past the other poor fools still stood there.

Fifteen minutes later the other poor fools were smugly grabbing their luggage from the belt whilst we stood there fuming. Naturally ours were on the last trolley load. Out through customs and into the queue for Domestic Flight Departures.

Dave suddenly started laughing and pointed to the lounge inside. Amongst the crowd of mainly black people sat two blondes - Rob and Hazel Hussey; Rob was proudly sporting the bright green Robin Hood hat complete with large feather that we'd sent a few weeks before.
Strangely enough we had no difficulty finding seats next to them.
They hadn't pre booked and were trying desperately to get on the same flight to Livingstone as us. We watched in awe as Rob tried every trick in the book to get on our flight despite being told several times that it was fully booked.

He badgered everyone who looked like they had an ounce of influence and many who didn't. All to no avail and eventually they had to settle for seats on the next flight at 2.30pm.

Our flight was late and we climbed into what Sue described as ' something from The Flight of The Phoenix' - a small, scruffy Brazilian propellor plane -at about 9.15 am. for the hour long flight to Livingstone.
We were seated by the emergency exits and were given our personal emergency instructions by the stewardess - described by the pilot as 'the charming Blanche'.

An uneventful flight (except for the dubious chicken bap supplied by the charming Blanche) in bright sunshine and then we could see the spray from the Victoria Falls as the plane banked before landing smoothly at the tiny Livingstone Airport where Chadwick, a hotel driver, was
waiting to meet us.
Chadwick made a little welcome speech before driving to the Zambezi Sun, pointing out places of interest and a couple of giraffe by the road, before pulling up at reception where Dave and Pam Male who had travelled the day before via South Africa were waiting to meet us.
Ten minutes later we were downing our first cold beers at the outside bar by the pool.
Half an hour later Dave D. received a text from the Husseys:
'ARRIVING AT 11.30 ON CREW PLANE.'

Pictures below show the Charming Blanche saying goodbye and Dave D. Dave M Pam & Sue at the bar in the Zambezi Sun.