12th July 2008 Luangwa - Lusaka - Ndola.

JULY 12TH 2008.

We take our time at breakfast on our last morning in Mfuwe. No game drive today; we're on the 9.30 flight to Lusaka.
We say goodbye to the Lee family who are also leaving and members of staff. Its been an excellent few days.
Jason rounds us up at 8.15 and we set off for the airport in early morning sunshine along the narrow road, over the Luangwa bridge waving goodbye to the staff at the checkpoint; past straggling, poor villages with their ramshackle vehicles and patches of cultivation. Children smile and shout 'Bye,bye'. Cyclists wobble off the tar and on to the orange dirt as they hear us approaching.

Jason cant resist pointing out birds as we pass. Rob, armed with three days of information, shouts out, 'Lilac crested roller' and later Dave, not to outdone, 'Chicken!'. Everyone laughs.
The airport is quiet. The Males arrive clutching souvenir blankets bought near the road. We've arrived before the staff and we stand around waiting until the check-in starts. There is no information about delays but Husseys, veteran users of Zambian airlines, walk out and settle in at a cafe with the papers and coffee.

A Proflight plane arrives, passengers board and we watch it as it taxis out and takes off right on time. Our flight time passes. No news. At 10.15 our plane arrives and we troop out. It leaves one hour late. Three of our four Zambian Airways flights have been delayed. Males had also told us that their flight to Mfuwe had been delayed as the previous passengers had refused to fly because of a smell of burning and smoke coming from the air conditioning. They had walked off and refused to continue till it was fixed.

No problems with our flight though. No Blanche, but the stewardess offers us the same chicken baps - maybe exactly the same chicken baps -and we politely refuse. We all notice, however, that they are delivered to the pilots.
As we begin to descend to Lusaka airport the little plane bumps around in turbulence. Rob leans over and says that the chicken baps are getting to work in the cockpit..
Outside the airport a smiling driver is waiting with a modern Nissan minibus. We pile our luggage in the back and said our goodbyes to the Husseys who have been absolutely great companions but have to get back to Swaziland. They gave us excellent advice and help in setting up the trip and were good fun all the time.

Out to the Zambian Airways flight at Mfuwe. Saying goodbye to the Husseys.

Our driver is Yumba, a smart, courteous man who is also an excellent and knowledgeable driver as becomes clear as he bypasses the notorious Lusaka city centre.

We drive through well-to-do areas with houses protected by ten foot fences with shards of glass or razor wire atop the walls. Some have electric fences and some have all three. Large warning signs are displayed Security guards stand by some gates.
We gradually drive out into the less well off areas, busy steets with older cars and vans and the ever present minibuses packed with passengers and putting out clouds of black smoke.

On the outskirts of the city we pass through an out and out shanty town with shacks made from every material conceivable; wood, brick, clay, cardboard, lino, plastic. Piles of rubbish, some of them alight, lie everywhere and thousands of ragged people swarm around.

Yumba chooses to stop for petrol here and we sit, uncomfortable in the van and breathe a sigh of relief when finally we move off and clear the built up area heading north to Kabwe.

The views have changed little in the thirty odd years since the Males and Durbers lived here. There are many more vehicles on the road, more people and more houses - mainly made of mud - on the roadside. However, this, the M1 of Zambia and the only major road in the country, is in good condition.

Every so often Yumba slows down and we thud over a speed bump. Much bigger than in the UK and with no warning signs they are not painted and impossible to see in the bright sunlight. Fortunately Yumba knows them all. They often precede a police check where all vehicles slow down and wait to be waved through or stopped. We're told that they are looking for untaxed and unroadworthy vehicles but a high proportion of the vehicles that we pass are obviously in a dangerous and overloaded condition. We can only asssume that they know routes past these checks.

Zambian bus passengers.

We are stopped only once on our journey when a young, self-important policeman walks around the brand new minbus looking hard at the wheels before waving us on dismissively.

Ninety miles on we enter the outskirts of Kabwe. The Durbers lived here between 1971 and 1974. Their daughter Carol was born here.

Yumba follows directions as we enter the town and eventually we find the Durber's first house, 8 Nerina Street. The once pretty estate, each street named after a tree and that street lined with those trees, has deteriorated badly. There are no roadsigns, the tar has disappeared from the roads and many houses are in poor condition.

We park outside the house. A high hedge protects the front but little else has changed. A young woman comes to the gate but -unsurprisingly - does not invite us in but allows us to take photgraphs from the gate. This house is not too badly maintained and a pool has has been added at the front. We dont linger and drive into the town centre looking for the Elephants Head hotel.

The pics below show the house today on the left and as it was in 1972 on the right.

Pics above show the Elephants Head (now Tuskers) and the Slave Tree, Kabwe.

We find the Elephants Head, now renamed Tuskers, and park . It was and still is the only real hotel in town. We have a good lunch on the lawn served by a helpful waiter named Frank. Round the corner stands a large fig tree where once slaves were sold. In the seventies it was the bus terminus but its fenced off now. We carry on north, arriving in Ndola. the start of the copperbelt mining area at dusk and check in to the mukuba Hotel.

A good lunch at Tuskers and arrival at the Mukuba Hotel, Ndola.

The Mukuba is a big, modern looking hotel The rooms are a bit of a let down and are well worn.

We meet in the bar and have a couple of beers. A Jaapie stands by the bar shouting in Afrikaans into his mobile. A so-so buffet meal and back into the bar where the Jaapie continues to dial and then shout. We suspect that he is dialling his own number. Dave M. gets on to the internet. He has work to do. The rest of us go to bed.

11th July 2008 Luangwa Valley

JULY 11TH 2008.
Our last day in Luangwa. Early morning call as usual but its not needed. We've been kept awake most of the night by hippos fighting, farting and squelching about, elephants trumpeting and lions roaring. Where's the Noise Prevention Society when you need it?

Our American friends had been stopped by security from going to their chalet last night for a time as elephants were eating the trees above it.

Breakfast and then off on the bum-numbing jeep trail again. Jason continues where he left off yesterday, simultaneously driving, spotting and telling us about the birds and animals.
Whats more he speaks six languages.

We see a jeep parked in front of us and a big bull elephant, followed by another, walking down the road towards it. We stop behind the jeep and the back row occupants turn round. Its the Males. We photograph the elephants and continue to a spot overlooking two wide bends on the river where we stop for a drink.

Jason educates us.....................................................................................................................The Males

Our group photograph the............................................................................................................big bull.

It wanders off.....................................................................Kris and Sue swap gossip by the Luangwa.

Dave, Husseys and Jennifer.................................................................................Husseys, old Baobab

We then head west across a dried up river bed, struggling to get through the deep soft, white sand and have to have two tries to get up the steep hill on the other side. We give Jason a round of applause when we get to the top. The trees disappear and we're driving across a flat plain, little vegetation, just the stumps of old trees. Jason tell us that the vegetation has been destroyed by elephants.

Croc disguising itself with weed.......................................................................Maribou Stork, Impala.

We see a couple of crocs in a lagoon, weed on their backs. A pair of Maribou Storks, scavengers, look for something dead. A pile of white bones by the trail turns out to be the skeleton of a giraffe. Off the plain and onto a good dirt road where dozens of water buffalo are crossing in front of us. Zebras, baboons and the usual impala and puku are all around. Then its time to head back to Mfuwe where the Males arrive at noon for lunch.

Lunch in the lodge and its time for silly photographs. Rob wears his Robin Hood hat, Paul his Zambian Rugby shirt and we've borrowed a guide's feathered hat for Dave Male.

A couple of cold Castles later at 3pm Jason is charged with delivering the Males back to Flatdogs camp; the rest of us go along for the ride. Two other people are also aboard to be dropped at the Norman Carr camp and a village.
We see elephant near Flatdogs, bushbuck, hippo in the lagoon and get a five minute tour of the Norman Carr camp.

Back to Mfuwe at 3.45pm, just time to get a drink before we're off on our last drive.
Paul photographs elephant near....................................................................................Flatdogs Camp.

Husseys and Kris and Ron Lee opt out of the drive so Jennifer and the Durbers are with Jason and Isiah.

We see little big game but enjoy the drive through unspoiled bush in the warm evening air. Hundreds of buck and zebra graze as if they were in a zoo.

As the sun drops we park on a bend of the river and the usual large Gin and Tonics are produced. We've all grown to like these and the little jokey conversations with Jason and the Americans. We've learned that Jason is a fan of Arsenal so there is a little gentle leg pulling.

Buck and zebra grazing in 'meadow'...........................................Sue, Dave, Jennifer, Jason and Isiah.

Last sunset G & T in Luangwa.

We set off in full darkness, Isiah swinging the torch from side to side as we crash through thick bush churning up clouds of dust. See hyens and plenty of buck, all standing stock still, spaced out in the open.

Near the end of the drive we see the lights of a jeep stopped off the road and pull up alongside and switch off the engine. A pride of lions have

killed a puku and are tearing it to pieces. We watch, the scene lit by headlights for a while, other jeeps arrive and we head back to camp.

The Husseys are there, cold beer at the ready, a couple of drinks then its the meal. As we finish there is a great commotion from outside, roaring and grunting. We walk out onto the balcony. There are lights on the lagoon and they show two hippos, nose to nose, debating which is going to remain there.

The noise is terrifying but there is little action until one gradually inches back out of the water and up the bank.

Back inside we toast Jason, thank him for his help and adjourn to the bar for a final drink.

Unfortunately everyone is so tired that a couple of drinks is all we can manage and its back to the chalets.

Early start again as we have a flight to catch.

Sue Hazel Rob Dave and Jason on last drinks.

10th JULY 2008 Luangwa Valley

JULY 10TH 2008.

Early morning call at 5.45 after a restless night mainly caused by hippos squelching, belching and grunting around noisily below the balcony. A light breakfast outside before the sun gets up and then its into the Land Rover.

Sue finishes off her cornflakes. ...............................................Just ime for a laugh before we go.

Jason drives us out of the thicker bush and through open parkland with hundreds of puku, impala and zebra grazing; unafraid in daylight as the lions will be resting. The park is 9,000 square km (Wales is 20,000 sq. km) and no one is allowed to live there except the staff on a handful of lodges. No shooting is allowed in the park and they claim to have got a grip on poaching since the rhinos were wiped out by poachers in the eighties.

The only guns allowed are those carried by rangers accompanying walking safaris.

We see buffalo ......................................................................................and hippos.

More education from Jason as we drive. He points out the sausage trees which have a fruit two to three feet long that looks like a giant peanut; tells uis about local shrubs that are used to produce colours and medicine.
At about 9am he stops on the banks of the Luangwa and we watch hippos while we have a drink. Dave and Sue see a croc slither into the river below us and then a water monitor.

Another drive across a dry river bed and then into the trees again before stopping by a gravestone near the river. Its the grave of a famous naturalist, Norman Carr, who did much to secure the game parks in Zambia and started the walking safaris.

Near the grave a couple of tables are set up under the trees and a temporary kitchen manned by staff from the lodge are serving a full English breakfast - bacon, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, beans, sausage, toast and tea and coffee. All very civilised and we feel privileged.

Breakfast in the bush.................................................... ..... ..... ........Jason, Husseys, Durbers.

At one stage Jason stops the vehicle and stared at a bush several feet from us. We see nothing at first and then spot the rear end of an animal sticking out of the leaves. This gradually takes the shape of a lion and then it eases out, a large male. As we sit there a lioness appears then two cubs then another lioness and another cub. Suddenly we have a whole pride. Brilliant spotting by Jason.

............................................ Kris and Rob watch the pride amble into view.

We move on, a kudu bull grazes on young bushes and later spot a hippo fast asleep under a tree by the road. We watch it for a few minutes and it opens an eye but is totally unperturbed. Further along Rob spots a giraffe and then later we see two elephants lazily eating treetops.

Note - all the pics taken by Dave D.

Back at camp we decide to take the rest of the day off. Lunch in the camp, and then we spend the afternoon in our chalets watching the lagoon and and catching up on some sleep.

We wave our AMerican friends off with Jason as they go on their evening drive and then chat with Hazel and Rob for a while before agreeing to meet at 7pm in the bar.

When we arrive there is a little drinking session underway with a witty and slightly inebriated young bloke who is co-owner of a small camp. A couple of drinks on and the jeeps return and we have another good meal in candlelight.

Later Paul and Sue are reprimanded for trying to walk to their chalet without a security man.

Another great day.

9th July 2008. Lusaka to Luangwa Valley

JULY 9TH 2008.

Holiday Inn, Lusaka; up and packed by 6am, time for a slice of toast and tea before getting into taxis for the 20 minute drive to the airport. We've drawn two cowboy taxi drivers and there is little chat and plenty of imaginary brake pedals pressed as we belt along.

Our little Brazilian plane is on time and we even have the Charming Blanche as our hostess once more. We sit by the emergency exits again and she starts to go through the drill before recognising us, smiles and says, 'I have to do it'. A good flight in bright sunshine (we decline the chicken bap, Rob is convinced that its the cause of his upset stomach) and as we near the Eastern border we can follow the contours of the Luangwa River as it snakes through the bush. A smooth touchdown and Blanche says, 'See you again'.

Waiting to meet us at little Mfuwe Airport is a game viewing jeep with a trailer for our luggage. The driver, Jason, is to be our guide during our visit. Its a 40 minute trip along a country road. In the 70's there was only one village by this road, now almost the entire length is lined with mud and wattle rondavels with reed roofs plus clay and brick buildings. Behind them,cultivated patches of fruit, and vegetables show bright green against the red soil. Signs advertising carpets, vegetables, stores, bars and souvenirs are nailed to posts. The locals are cheerful and the kids playing in the sand stop and wave as we pass.
On through the park gates and over the bridge across the river where crocs lay sprawled by the water and we turn right into Mfuwe Lodge where an American woman named Shelley welcomes us with a drink and iced towels before asking a helper to take our luggage to our chalets. On the path to the chalet a little snake, no more than ten inches long rears up on the path and makes it clear that IT isn't moving. We step carefully around it. The next day, in the same place, Sue had the same experience
The main lodge has a large open bar/dining room that opens out onto a pool and a wooden balcony that overlooks a lagoon. Separate buildings for staff and a massage parlour are nearby. Apparently in November elephants walk through the bar to get to the fruits of a certain tree which must be interesting. The individual chalets, strung out along the lagoons are each self contained with a bathroom and lounge/bedroom. The lounge opens out onto a wooden verandah above the lagoon. The bathroom windows can be slid back so you can watch game from your bath. A big mosquito net can be dropped over the beds at night.

Pics show Sue outside chalet and on balcony.

There is always something to watch. In the lagoon crocs lie waiting, strange birds wander around and there is always game on the banks, usually pukus or impalas but sometimes crocs, hippo, bushbuck and kudu - and the baboons are everywhere.

The camp day is: early morning call at 5.45am. along to the balcony for breakfast and at 6.30 climb into open jeep with a driver/ guide for a three to four hour drive around the park. Back for a buffet lunch then its siesta time during the hot part of the day until 4pm when its tea and cakes before doing another three to four hour drive. Back by 8pm to a home cooked meal.

The guides are highly trained. In addition to the basic skills of driving and bushcraft they have to learn about firearms, and the hundreds of trees, shrubs, grasses, birds, snakes, lizards and insects as well as the animals. During their four year training they are expected to learn Latin names as well as the local and English ones.

The Males are in a smaller camp a few miles away. They are coming up for lunch on Friday.

For the game drives and the evening meals our group is joined by three Americans, a nurse, Jennifer, working in Malawi and her parents, Ron and Kris Lee, out from Florida on their first trip to Africa.

We set off on our first drive at 4.30pm. in the soft afternoon sunlight and immediately Jason is pointing at birds, 'Lilians Lovebird, Lilac Crested Roller' and explaining the difference between pukus and impala. We also see zebra and then he spots another jeep stopped off the road. We cruise up to it and he switches off the engine. A few yards away a lioness and two cubs lounge on the red soil. Shortly another lioness emerges and then another small cub. None pay any attention to us. We move on and enjoy the drive in the warm evening sun across lovely parkland. Waterbuck, bushbuck and then as the sun begins to set he pulls up by a tree on a low headland overlooking the river.

Gin and tonic and beers appear followed by samosas, cake and biscuits. We all chat and joke.

A nice little break.

Back on board we are offered ponchos as its getting dark and its cool. Jason has a deputy on board, Isiah, who now stands in the footwell with a powerful torch sweeping it from side to side looking for game. We soon see a mongoose, then a couple of water buffalo.

We keep our heads in and down as the jeep crashes through tree branches that whip across the metal frame. Then Jennifer says, 'Hyena' and we see the insane glint of a hyena's eyes as it turns to look at us from twenty yards ahead before shuffling off into the undergrowth. We see two more, close up, in the next few minutes then buffalo. Jason also picks out and identifies birds - 'Giant Eagle Owl, Barred Nightjar' as we bounce along trailing a cloud of dust behind us.

At about 8pm we pull back into the camp, tired but happy and have a couple of cold beers before gathering round our table for a delicious meal.

Around us, another five tables. The conversation is friendly but muted. Everyone is tired and we soon head off to our chalets with our mandatory escort - a member of staff with a torch - as hippos wander the camp at night.

Lioness & Puku.