At lunchtime we stopped in a bar on Livingstone's main road for a drink then went to the Protea Hotel for another on the way back to the Zambezi Sun.
David watches Zebra at the Sun.
We reconvened at 3.30 to catch a minibus which took us a few miles along a rough road to a jetty on the Zambezi. We were off on a Sunset Cruise on the African Princess.The other passengers included a few Zambians, some Indians and a large Muslim family.
We commandeered one side of the deck (the side with the bar) and ordered our first of the 'all free' drinks from Irene, our smiling waitress wearing naval uniform, who guaranteed that we would have a nice time - and she was right. At 4pm the boat cast off and edged out across the smooth, wide Zambezi towards Livingstone island and we cruised quietly north away from the Falls. Hippos snorted by the shore as we passed by sipping cold beers and cocktails (us, not the hippos).
Our sister ship, the African Queen, and a couple of other cruise boats were plying similar courses. One, the Taonga Safari boat, looked like it had been made that afternoon out of old tyres and scrap wood. When I first saw it I assumed it was an old jetty. When it pulled away from the landing it trailed clouds of smoke and we realised that they were cooking on home made barbeques. There were no lifebelts. However, the passengers were obviously having a ball.
We commandeered one side of the deck (the side with the bar) and ordered our first of the 'all free' drinks from Irene, our smiling waitress wearing naval uniform, who guaranteed that we would have a nice time - and she was right. At 4pm the boat cast off and edged out across the smooth, wide Zambezi towards Livingstone island and we cruised quietly north away from the Falls. Hippos snorted by the shore as we passed by sipping cold beers and cocktails (us, not the hippos).
Our sister ship, the African Queen, and a couple of other cruise boats were plying similar courses. One, the Taonga Safari boat, looked like it had been made that afternoon out of old tyres and scrap wood. When I first saw it I assumed it was an old jetty. When it pulled away from the landing it trailed clouds of smoke and we realised that they were cooking on home made barbeques. There were no lifebelts. However, the passengers were obviously having a ball.
For an hour or so we put-putted peacefully along, the drinks kept coming and the mood was happy.
As the sun began to set we pulled near to the Zimbabwean side and waved to a couple of fishermen on the bank.
Soon afterwards the engines were switched off and we floated across the river exposing the full sunset across the water; as it began to get dark the engines kicked in and we turned for home. The Taonga Safari boat closed and there was an exchange of jeers and then our boat and the African Queen began to head south. Suddenly the engine noise got louder and we picked up speed. Looking across towards the shore the African Queen, parallel to us, was doing the same and then suddenly it was a flat out race, both boats belting downriver at full speed trailing wakes half a mile long and cheered on by their passengers. The Muslim kids next to us were dancing around shouting, faces alight with excitement. We were ahead, then they pulled in front then we finally got in front before throttling back and edging quietly in to the jetty in almost full darkness. Great fun.
As the sun began to set we pulled near to the Zimbabwean side and waved to a couple of fishermen on the bank.
Soon afterwards the engines were switched off and we floated across the river exposing the full sunset across the water; as it began to get dark the engines kicked in and we turned for home. The Taonga Safari boat closed and there was an exchange of jeers and then our boat and the African Queen began to head south. Suddenly the engine noise got louder and we picked up speed. Looking across towards the shore the African Queen, parallel to us, was doing the same and then suddenly it was a flat out race, both boats belting downriver at full speed trailing wakes half a mile long and cheered on by their passengers. The Muslim kids next to us were dancing around shouting, faces alight with excitement. We were ahead, then they pulled in front then we finally got in front before throttling back and edging quietly in to the jetty in almost full darkness. Great fun.
Hazel led the singing in the minibus on the way back and stunned the driver by launching into a full version of the Zambian national anthem in the Bemba language. A family of Americans refused to participate and there were mutterings that they were miserable buggers but they were probably just sober.
Back at the hotel we ate (Paul tried curried crocodile - never again) and Rob, Hazel and Dave D. went into Livingstone for a few more drinks.
David is a billionaire in Zimbabwe - as is everyone else.
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