11th July 2008 Luangwa Valley

JULY 11TH 2008.
Our last day in Luangwa. Early morning call as usual but its not needed. We've been kept awake most of the night by hippos fighting, farting and squelching about, elephants trumpeting and lions roaring. Where's the Noise Prevention Society when you need it?

Our American friends had been stopped by security from going to their chalet last night for a time as elephants were eating the trees above it.

Breakfast and then off on the bum-numbing jeep trail again. Jason continues where he left off yesterday, simultaneously driving, spotting and telling us about the birds and animals.
Whats more he speaks six languages.

We see a jeep parked in front of us and a big bull elephant, followed by another, walking down the road towards it. We stop behind the jeep and the back row occupants turn round. Its the Males. We photograph the elephants and continue to a spot overlooking two wide bends on the river where we stop for a drink.

Jason educates us.....................................................................................................................The Males

Our group photograph the............................................................................................................big bull.

It wanders off.....................................................................Kris and Sue swap gossip by the Luangwa.

Dave, Husseys and Jennifer.................................................................................Husseys, old Baobab

We then head west across a dried up river bed, struggling to get through the deep soft, white sand and have to have two tries to get up the steep hill on the other side. We give Jason a round of applause when we get to the top. The trees disappear and we're driving across a flat plain, little vegetation, just the stumps of old trees. Jason tell us that the vegetation has been destroyed by elephants.

Croc disguising itself with weed.......................................................................Maribou Stork, Impala.

We see a couple of crocs in a lagoon, weed on their backs. A pair of Maribou Storks, scavengers, look for something dead. A pile of white bones by the trail turns out to be the skeleton of a giraffe. Off the plain and onto a good dirt road where dozens of water buffalo are crossing in front of us. Zebras, baboons and the usual impala and puku are all around. Then its time to head back to Mfuwe where the Males arrive at noon for lunch.

Lunch in the lodge and its time for silly photographs. Rob wears his Robin Hood hat, Paul his Zambian Rugby shirt and we've borrowed a guide's feathered hat for Dave Male.

A couple of cold Castles later at 3pm Jason is charged with delivering the Males back to Flatdogs camp; the rest of us go along for the ride. Two other people are also aboard to be dropped at the Norman Carr camp and a village.
We see elephant near Flatdogs, bushbuck, hippo in the lagoon and get a five minute tour of the Norman Carr camp.

Back to Mfuwe at 3.45pm, just time to get a drink before we're off on our last drive.
Paul photographs elephant near....................................................................................Flatdogs Camp.

Husseys and Kris and Ron Lee opt out of the drive so Jennifer and the Durbers are with Jason and Isiah.

We see little big game but enjoy the drive through unspoiled bush in the warm evening air. Hundreds of buck and zebra graze as if they were in a zoo.

As the sun drops we park on a bend of the river and the usual large Gin and Tonics are produced. We've all grown to like these and the little jokey conversations with Jason and the Americans. We've learned that Jason is a fan of Arsenal so there is a little gentle leg pulling.

Buck and zebra grazing in 'meadow'...........................................Sue, Dave, Jennifer, Jason and Isiah.

Last sunset G & T in Luangwa.

We set off in full darkness, Isiah swinging the torch from side to side as we crash through thick bush churning up clouds of dust. See hyens and plenty of buck, all standing stock still, spaced out in the open.

Near the end of the drive we see the lights of a jeep stopped off the road and pull up alongside and switch off the engine. A pride of lions have

killed a puku and are tearing it to pieces. We watch, the scene lit by headlights for a while, other jeeps arrive and we head back to camp.

The Husseys are there, cold beer at the ready, a couple of drinks then its the meal. As we finish there is a great commotion from outside, roaring and grunting. We walk out onto the balcony. There are lights on the lagoon and they show two hippos, nose to nose, debating which is going to remain there.

The noise is terrifying but there is little action until one gradually inches back out of the water and up the bank.

Back inside we toast Jason, thank him for his help and adjourn to the bar for a final drink.

Unfortunately everyone is so tired that a couple of drinks is all we can manage and its back to the chalets.

Early start again as we have a flight to catch.

Sue Hazel Rob Dave and Jason on last drinks.