Holiday Inn, Lusaka; up and packed by 6am, time for a slice of toast and tea before getting into taxis for the 20 minute drive to the airport. We've drawn two cowboy taxi drivers and there is little chat and plenty of imaginary brake pedals pressed as we belt along.
Our little Brazilian plane is on time and we even have the Charming Blanche as our hostess once more. We sit by the emergency exits again and she starts to go through the drill before recognising us, smiles and says, 'I have to do it'. A good flight in bright sunshine (we decline the chicken bap, Rob is convinced that its the cause of his upset stomach) and as we near the Eastern border we can follow the contours of the Luangwa River as it snakes through the bush. A smooth touchdown and Blanche says, 'See you again'.
Waiting to meet us at little Mfuwe Airport is a game viewing jeep with a trailer for our luggage. The driver, Jason, is to be our guide during our visit. Its a 40 minute trip along a country road. In the 70's there was only one village by this road, now almost the entire length is lined with mud and wattle rondavels with reed roofs plus clay and brick buildings. Behind them,cultivated patches of fruit, and vegetables show bright green against the red soil. Signs advertising carpets, vegetables, stores, bars and souvenirs are nailed to posts. The locals are cheerful and the kids playing in the sand stop and wave as we pass.
On through the park gates and over the bridge across the river where crocs lay sprawled by the water and we turn right into Mfuwe Lodge where an American woman named Shelley welcomes us with a drink and iced towels before asking a helper to take our luggage to our chalets. On the path to the chalet a little snake, no more than ten inches long rears up on the path and makes it clear that IT isn't moving. We step carefully around it. The next day, in the same place, Sue had the same experience
The main lodge has a large open bar/dining room that opens out onto a pool and a wooden balcony that overlooks a lagoon. Separate buildings for staff and a massage parlour are nearby. Apparently in November elephants walk through the bar to get to the fruits of a certain tree which must be interesting. The individual chalets, strung out along the lagoons are each self contained with a bathroom and lounge/bedroom. The lounge opens out onto a wooden verandah above the lagoon. The bathroom windows can be slid back so you can watch game from your bath. A big mosquito net can be dropped over the beds at night.
Pics show Sue outside chalet and on balcony.
There is always something to watch. In the lagoon crocs lie waiting, strange birds wander around and there is always game on the banks, usually pukus or impalas but sometimes crocs, hippo, bushbuck and kudu - and the baboons are everywhere.
The camp day is: early morning call at 5.45am. along to the balcony for breakfast and at 6.30 climb into open jeep with a driver/ guide for a three to four hour drive around the park. Back for a buffet lunch then its siesta time during the hot part of the day until 4pm when its tea and cakes before doing another three to four hour drive. Back by 8pm to a home cooked meal.
The guides are highly trained. In addition to the basic skills of driving and bushcraft they have to learn about firearms, and the hundreds of trees, shrubs, grasses, birds, snakes, lizards and insects as well as the animals. During their four year training they are expected to learn Latin names as well as the local and English ones.
The Males are in a smaller camp a few miles away. They are coming up for lunch on Friday.
For the game drives and the evening meals our group is joined by three Americans, a nurse, Jennifer, working in Malawi and her parents, Ron and Kris Lee, out from Florida on their first trip to Africa.
We set off on our first drive at 4.30pm. in the soft afternoon sunlight and immediately Jason is pointing at birds, 'Lilians Lovebird, Lilac Crested Roller' and explaining the difference between pukus and impala. We also see zebra and then he spots another jeep stopped off the road. We cruise up to it and he switches off the engine. A few yards away a lioness and two cubs lounge on the red soil. Shortly another lioness emerges and then another small cub. None pay any attention to us. We move on and enjoy the drive in the warm evening sun across lovely parkland. Waterbuck, bushbuck and then as the sun begins to set he pulls up by a tree on a low headland overlooking the river.
Gin and tonic and beers appear followed by samosas, cake and biscuits. We all chat and joke.
A nice little break.
Back on board we are offered ponchos as its getting dark and its cool. Jason has a deputy on board, Isiah, who now stands in the footwell with a powerful torch sweeping it from side to side looking for game. We soon see a mongoose, then a couple of water buffalo.
We keep our heads in and down as the jeep crashes through tree branches that whip across the metal frame. Then Jennifer says, 'Hyena' and we see the insane glint of a hyena's eyes as it turns to look at us from twenty yards ahead before shuffling off into the undergrowth. We see two more, close up, in the next few minutes then buffalo. Jason also picks out and identifies birds - 'Giant Eagle Owl, Barred Nightjar' as we bounce along trailing a cloud of dust behind us.
At about 8pm we pull back into the camp, tired but happy and have a couple of cold beers before gathering round our table for a delicious meal.
Around us, another five tables. The conversation is friendly but muted. Everyone is tired and we soon head off to our chalets with our mandatory escort - a member of staff with a torch - as hippos wander the camp at night.
Lioness & Puku.
Waiting to meet us at little Mfuwe Airport is a game viewing jeep with a trailer for our luggage. The driver, Jason, is to be our guide during our visit. Its a 40 minute trip along a country road. In the 70's there was only one village by this road, now almost the entire length is lined with mud and wattle rondavels with reed roofs plus clay and brick buildings. Behind them,cultivated patches of fruit, and vegetables show bright green against the red soil. Signs advertising carpets, vegetables, stores, bars and souvenirs are nailed to posts. The locals are cheerful and the kids playing in the sand stop and wave as we pass.
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