Tuesday 5 August 2008

15th July 2008 Chingola - Ndola - Kabwe.

JULY 15TH 2008


We're thinking of the return journey now. Males fly to Botswana tomorrow. Durbers have another day then fly back to the UK.
We pack and go for breakfast. Alison Hart comes over to chat and wish us goodbye.
She has not heard of the Open Pit viewpoint suggested by Tony Goddard but we try for it anyway and drive up out of Chingola on the Chililabombwe Road.

As Tony told us, a few miles north, there is a clearing on the right and we pull over and get out. We can see the pit but the angle is difficult and the low early morning sun is against us.
Then a Zambian with a peaked cap tells us that photography is not allowed. We leave. Mission not accomplished.

Goodbyes in the Protea then its back through Kitwe where both cars manage to get lost before arriving back at Polite car where we're to leave our cars and get a lift with Yumba to Kabwe.

We hang around for over an hour. Florence tries to calculate our bill but is constantly interrupted by the Accountant, Francis, who continually whispers corrections to her and generally slows it all down. New faces appear to collect or drop off car keys. Phone calls come in. Florence handles everything. Joe Chikole, the owner and father of Florence, introduces himself ; a big, louder than life character he is very hearty but does not accelerate the process.
After a further debate about which vehicle we are to use - which is won on our behalf by Florence - we all climb in. Poor Pam chooses the short straw and is in the boot.
















Out of Ndola, down the main road, past a recently crashed truck being dismantled by about fifty scavengers, past roadside stalls selling honey, beer, fruit and baskets. The hills near Kapiri Mposhi come into view, more roadside vendors selling china which Yumba tells us comes from China as Kapiri is the rail terminal for the line to Tanzania constructed by the Chinese. On through the outskirts and into the Tuskers car park.
We've cancelled our original plan to stay at the Mukuba in Ndola as this seemed a better and easier location.
Dave D. was booked in at the Wazungulu Guest House but fortunately we find through Frank the recptionist that a room is available.
Tuskers,a cup of tea, a coke for Yumba and we shake his hand and wish him well. A natural gentleman - and a brilliant driver.









We walk round Kabwe. Dave M takes a photo of the slave tree but, as we are walking away we hear a loud voice protesting, 'White man.., what you doing,..... no good!'. We walk on.
We try to find an Indian Jewellers and an elderly, courteous man named Dixon from the library walks with us and tells us that it has now closed. We ask why the Kabwe traffic is so busy and he tells us that when the lead and zinc mine closed in the eighties the employees all received compensation. Many bought taxis - hence the congestion - but now that the price of fuel has rocketed they are facing tough times. We thank Dixon and walk on.
The roads as usual are breaking up badly. The shops run down and selling only very cheap or second hand goods. Vendors use the pavements . There are no whites and the few Indian faces we see are inside dark shops.
It is obvious that we are a novelty and comments in the local language are passed as we walk by; we can tell that these are not compliments. Some think that we are American.
We ignore them and walk the town. Its a noisy town with a general background babble topped by shouts from taxidrivers.
Its not pleasant but its not threatening.
Back to Tuskers.
More Kabwe photos. The Slave Tree and a market on the roadside.


Its the Males last night with us and we have a few glasses on the patio - glasses clinking, Cheers!
Then we eat. There are no other diners although the manager, Daniel Mweetwa and a lone Chinese resident are entering as we leave. Pam goes to bed whilst the rest of us try the bar.
There are about a dozen people in there. Loud music from the TV is stepped right up as we enter and we realise that we are not wanted. A couple of drinks and Sue and Paul leave followed later by Dave and Dave.

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